Wood is not going to cut it, as wood will flex, dent, and as you have seen break. Once you've done it this way you'll never try any other way again It's very simple but does require care. Sep 19, 2010 Here are the instructions for removing the timing cover, and for replacing the timing belt. Using breaker bar and long pipe I was able to break it loose after few tries. Step 5: Installing The New Pulley Take the new crankshaft pulley and place it on the engine.
Remove 6 crankshaft pulley bolts, should be 12mm. Remove the two 10mm fasteners red arrows , then remove the bracket inset. Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only. I also ensure that the socket is perfectly seated on the bolt head and even gently pwedge it with something in front so that it can't move. If there is spark but no fuel, then the fuel pump may be bad or a clogged fuel filter. And one upper coolant hose that split on the highway in northern Mexico in the middle of the desolate Chihuahuan Desert on Good Friday!! I found it was easier to whack it with a big hammer.
Figure 9 Use a seal installer or 48mm socket purple arrow to drive the seal into the timing cover red arrow. I did not, and plan to remove the cam covers soon, install new grommets and ensure all gaskets are properly seated. I was looking for a reliable daily driver and this Jag is not goign to be it. And a way to hold the crankshaft. It's normal threaded or inverse like the oil pump nut? Replace crankshaft radial sealing ring, refer to Front Crankshaft Seal, Service and Repair. I know it can be done, but I am glad I had an extra pulley after the mess I made.
Anyway, the belt pulley is severely stuck. Remove drive Belt or alternator, refer to Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories. First a hole is drilled with the provided drill bit, then the removal bit is screwed into the new hole and turned counter-clockwise which further inserts the removal bit and, if the removal bit does not snap, the broken threaded shank should back out. If the input rate of rotation in a system is greater than the output rate of rotation, then it is called an under drive. Just don't thread too far into the balancer for you will contact the engine. I used a three-jaw puller as well, but no matter how easy i pulled, i still bent the pulley. You only need the long crank holder bar.
Well after looking more closely at the timing chain slide rail, I found that its basicly all broken, its got a large crack going down the whole rail so I gotta replace that now. These bolts stretch when torqued, so you'll have to replace yours with a new one. Since i havent taken it off i was wondering if i might have a crankshaft seal leak. Thank you for using FixYa. Vehicle models change and evolve as they grow older, so the vehicle shown in our illustrations may vary slightly from yours. Again be very careful doing this. Go extra slow, make sure the puller is centered, avoid hitting the radiator and you should have few worries.
Install seal until it is recessed about 3: 4 mm into the timing cover blue arrow. Now, once the bolt is removed, comes the task of pulling the harmonic damper off the crank. You are taking the timing cover off, spend the extra few dollars to replace them. It sits quietly for long periods of time, for I use a motorcycle for most beetling around. Remove the coil power wire. This releases the drive belt. I'm kind of frustrated, all the engine rebuilt process stoped because of that bolt.
I would suggest soaking the broken part with penetrating lubricant first and allowing it time to seep into the threads of the broken bolt. The purpose of a crankshaft seal is to provide sealing between the rotating crankshaft and the outside. Classical crankshaft seals consist of a metal housing that carries a dynamic sealing lip that also provides a static sealing function. One bit of good news: After this task, removing the large bolt and the balancer, the rest of the job is very easy, logical and only normal tools reqd. Get under vehicle and remove steering pump bolts and move it out of the way. Maybe run them all the way in, then back off a turn or two.
Actually, its only ~317 food pounds! The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches. Inspect the seal and be sure the lip is not rolled or crooked. My secondary tensioners didn't have any visable cracks after removal and I plan on selling the car to avoid future problems. This small plastic roller is fixed down on the drive belt which keeps the belt and the pulley intact. Edit: I used the lock pin, a breaker bar, and a jackstand to pop the bolt out. Attach holding tool and remove bolt securing pulley.